The leather used for our R17L3 jacket has been processed by Ogasawara Leather — one of Japan’s great soft leather tanneries. Located in the suburb of Yahiro in Sumida-ku, east Tokyo, each hide undergoes 6 transformative processes, over the course of a few days. Using Mediterranean Eco Sheep Leather (a byproduct from the meat industry) the following steps illustrate the deep knowledge and heritage of Ogasawara Leather, founded in 1903 and currently in its 4th generation of leadership.

1/ Large wooden drums are used for dying, colour-fasting, washing and fat-liquoring. Some drums hold 100 sheepskins, while others hold 500 at a time. This processing runs from morning until night.

2/ Setting the leather closer to its final dimensions is done while also wringing out water left from the dying process. Using a roller with blunt blades the water is pushed outwards while the leather is pulled back and forth.

3/ Drying of the leather is done in the open air of the factory’s second floor.

4/ Bata-Furi is the process used to re-soften the leather after it has been dried. 5 skins are gathered per machine and intensely shaken for a total of 20 minutes each.

5/ Rotary Spraying is used for adding additional pigment and any coatings to the leather. Colouring and drying at this stage can be done multiple times over. For our sheepskin, this is done twice.

6/ Ironing is the last stage, used to confirm the final softness and lustre of the finished leather.